This page is devoted to the
Fastionista’s general guidelines about wardrobe. Her personal motto is:
“Everyone, regardless of size or age or circumstance, deserves to feel
beautiful every day of the week. So let’s bring a little glamour to that daily
grind, oui?” She believes that when you look your best, you feel
your best; and, if you have the right tools, anyone can throw together a
stylish outfit fast.
To that end, I’ll be
updating this page regularly with some of her basic guidelines. First up, women’s
suits:
For anyone who owns
separates but no suits, or who owns a suit but doesn’t particularly love it, or
who is just overwhelmed by the options out there and doesn’t know where to
begin looking, I’m here to tell you there is hope! And hope begins by keeping these
pointers in mind:
1) Your suit jackets
should have a tailored look, with darting and princess seaming to
adhere to the feminine silhouette.
2) Look for a lining
in the jacket that features a pattern or different color, so that if you
decide to cuff your sleeves, you’ve got some additional visual interest going
on.
3) At least one of
your suits should have a matching vest for the ultra-sleek,
ultra-professional three-piece look. And . . .
4) at least one
should have a subtle pattern, either in the fabric, like tweed, or in a
print, like narrow pinstripes.
5) Suits should be
investment pieces, so it’s best to save up for that super chic one that you
love more than chocolate, rather than settle for a couple of different suits
that leave you cold.
Three Suits Every
Professional Woman Should Own
The Modern Power Suit: A structured cut (strong shoulders and angles in
the jacket, a pencil skirt, sheath dress, or straight-leg pants) traditionally
conveys that strong businesswoman image, as does a solid gray or red
color, or pinstripes. But the most important factor to consider here is
whatever it is that makes you feel empowered. My power suit
will always be a skirt suit or dress, because stating my femininity, rather
than hiding it, always makes me feel like I can take on the world.
The Black Suit: This should be a distinctly different suit from your
power suit, although the cut can be the same. It should be understated,
chic but not chichi (this is one place embellishments aren’t necessary,
although a subtle pinstripe would be fine). As with any of your suits, if you
go with a pantsuit, it helps to find pants that have pocket or a bit of
faux pocket detailing on the rear (this cut usually flatters a woman’s
curves, or creates them if need be, and combats SBS: Saggy Butt Syndrome).
Since you’re dealing not only with monochrome here, but dark, potentially
gloomy monochrome, try to find pants or a skirt with belt loops:
whether or not the suit comes with its own belt, you can swap out belt after
belt to keep the look fresh and break up the monotony. Finally, a ¾-length
sleeve works nicely on a black suit, as does a skirt that
doesn’t reach below the knee--one who’s clad in a sheet of black from head
to toe has a tendency to look a little . . . Reaperish.
The Skirt Suit: Regardless of whether skirts are incorporated in the other two
suits, a skirt suit is a must to highlight your modernity as a woman in the
workplace. This should be a little more flowy and more feminine than
the power suit, and there should be something different about
it, in the cut or pattern, for instance. It should be more
colorful (or at least a brighter neutral) than the black suit. Try
reds or blues (or in neutrals, tan or white). A cropped or belted
jacket, preferably with ruching or complementary lapels (black lapels
on a tan jacket, for instance), can add a unique twist.
For the Minimalist
If you can’t have all of
these pieces right now, start with the black suit, but make it a pinstriped suit--it’s
the most versatile, and the pattern will give it something special. Try to make
it a skirt suit, and try to find subtle ways to make it
unique (a single ruffle in the skirt, a shawl lapel or asymmetrical
hem on the jacket, etc.)
----------------
Tops
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Tops
Tops seem to be everyone’s downfall when it comes to
collecting clothes. Do you have, like, seventy thousand different tops you’ve accumulated
over the years—shirts, blouses, camis, tanks, tees, sweaters, that sequined
thing with the shoulders cut out because it seemed like a good idea at the
time—but you actually only ever wear the same six standbys over and over? Well,
maybe that’s smart of you (because, really, that cut-out-shoulder thing should
not be worn outside of a rave). But maybe you’re playing your style a little
too safe, or maybe you’re just not sure what to keep. No problem! Start with
these guidelines:
1) For the most part, you want tops that highlight
the narrowest part of your midsection: at the bottom of
the ribcage. Faux wraps, belted tunics, structured or cropped sweaters—these
are all good for streamlining your silhouette.
2)
Give away all your T-shirts, unless they’re unusually
cute or a keepsake from that Bangles reunion tour.
3)
Make sure your tops fit: don’t get hung up on whether
the label says 4 or 14, S or XL. One line might classify your measurements as
medium, another might say you’re large, so you can’t
just rely on what the label says. (Try before you buy at the
store; if you order online keep all the tags on until you try things on; and
always remember to check how your back looks as well as your front.)
Remember: baggy tops do not hide bulgies;
they just make us look heavier than we are. Tops
that are too small are not sexy or appropriate
in the workplace (or pretty much anywhere else, really) unless you model
Victoria’s Secret underwear for a living.
4) Finally—good news here—you
don’t have to write something off immediately just because it’s white, has
horizontal stripes, or seems like it won’t look good on you.
Try it on!
Bet you never thought tops would have
so many rules, oui? But I find that
the more rules I have, the easier it is to find something that works, because
every rule narrows the field a little bit more.
Four Types of Tops Every
Professional Woman Should Own
The Medium-Weight Sweater: If
you have to start by choosing one type of sweater, medium-weight is the way to
go for versatility. You can wear it by itself on a warmer day, or with a
layering piece under it on a chillier day (or you can add a layering piece just
to give it unique detailing at the cuffs, hem, and neck). Find what neckline
you like best, and then make it your own; I like Vs and cowls,
so I try to find sweaters that have detailing like subtle
sequins at the V, and patterns
in the cowl’s stitching. Some turtleneck sweaters
have asymmetrical button detailing;
some crewnecks have color blocking.
Find what you like best. Sweaters are a great way to work color and texture
in, too—the best start to a sweater collection is with your favorite
non-neutral, and a softer material like cashmere or a silk
blend.
The Cami (or Tank):
This is such a fun piece, not only because of its versatility (wear it under
any completer piece or blouse) but because you can get a little crazy since
you’re dealing with a small section of fabric (think splashy abstract shiny
patterns on a cami as opposed to on an entire dress). Here is a good
opportunity to really take some style risks. Get every
color with every embellishment that you happen to like. My
only advice is: 1) Don’t go dull.
Even if you need or want a quieter cami, still make it your own by getting it
in satin, or in your favorite color, or with a pretty pattern or artistic
stitching at the neckline. Make every piece special.
2) Don’t wear it on its own.
Unless it’s summertime, you’re on the beach, and you have killer triceps, a
cami on its own is far too casual (and usually not all that flattering).
The Blouse: Whether
you’re more into an oxford button-down or a rayon pullover, that’s your call
(although I think it’s good to have a few different styles in your closet).
This is another great way to work color and pattern
in, and even a little luster
if you are going with a silk, satin, or charmeuse. Remember, the blouse should
be flattering to your silhouette,
with darting and seaming to nip in at that narrowest spot of the midsection, at
the bottom of the rib cage. And if you’re dealing with a button-down, make
sure all the buttons close properly (no pulling or gaps). If you
need to, go up a size
to make sure you’ve got your buttons working right, and then have a tailor take
in anything that needs it.
The Layering Top:
This
is one of your all-purpose pieces. Wear it under sweaters to keep warm in
winter, or wear it under a blazer for some color blocking at the cuffs. On a
casual Friday you can even wear it on its own. Which is why even though this
is an all-purpose piece, it should still reflect your
personality, and fit you properly (be on the lookout especially for hems that
roll or lift when you sit, or synthetic materials that tend to suction to your
body and emphasize any bulgies on your back and middle). Now, unlike the other
pieces here, where embellishment and pattern work well, I think a layering top is a
great way to bring in one solid pop of color, or a solid neutral to serve as a
blank canvas (just be sure that if you’re doing a solid here, you bring some pattern
or a different texture into your other outfit elements). But no matter what, the
neckline, sleeve length, material, and color should all make you feel
beautiful.
For the Minimalist
It’s best to have several of each of the above
pieces in your wardrobe, for various temperatures, occasions, and just for a
little variety. But if you can only have one or two of each right now, focus on what works best with the rest of your
wardrobe. For instance, a black cami with lace embellishment
will probably work with more things in your closet than a blue and purple
paisley cami. But, notice I said “black cami with lace
embellishment.” If you have to stick to fewer items that are more
conservative, work in things like texture
(e.g. lace), pattern (e.g.
monochrome chevron stripe or houndstooth), and shine
(e.g. metallic threading) to make the piece as unique as it is utilitarian.
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